Secondhand Clothing Surges, but Meaningful Sustainability Requires More
Secondhand clothing is on the rise. In recent years, both luxury and mid-tier brands have embraced branded resale and pre-loved clothing in response to growing consumer demand for vintage garments and an increase in values-based buying (Business of Fashion).
A recent article from Trellis found that secondhand sales have surged, with sales expected to hit $317 billion by 2028. During Fashion Week 2025, models donned secondhand styles from eBay’s Endless Runway, featuring designs from brands such as LUAR, Moschino, and Niccolò Pasqualetti. In addition to luxury brands embracing vintage and pre-loved items, more financially accessible brands such as H&M have joined the resale movement, with H&M opening its second preloved “store within a store” in November 2025 (Trellis).
According to The State of Fashion 2026, secondhand sales are projected to grow two to three times faster than “firsthand” items in the next two to three years (Business of Fashion). The US market alone has increased from $28 billion in 2019 to an estimated $56 billion in 2025 (ThredUp). Circular fashion sources such as online fashion resale and rental platforms accounted for 28.8 percent of luxury apparel spending and 5.4 percent of mass market apparel sales in 2025 (Mastercard Services).
What explains the “secondhand surge”? Forbes explains that economic pressures often driven by inflation and tariffs play a role, as consumers look for ways to obtain one-of-a-kind items at a reduced cost. However, economic factors alone do not fully account for the increase in in-person thrifting and online resale platforms – consumers are also motivated by a search for greater value. The consumer mindset is changing, with a decline in stigmas surrounding used clothing and an emphasis on purchasing clothing items that align with sustainable values (Forbes).
However, the increase in secondhand clothing does not necessarily indicate a shift towards a more sustainable fashion industry in general. Trellis explains that secondhand storefronts represented only 147 out of thousands of brands as of September 2025. While this figure has increased from merely nine in 2020, it hardly accounts for the majority of all clothing brands. Additionally, only one third of fashion executives consider resale clothing a priority, and only seven percent reportedly plan to support circular business plans and other sustainability efforts (Trellis).
While secondhand clothing gains momentum, it remains a relatively small part of the fashion industry. Meanwhile, fast fashion remains popular as consumers look to sites such as Shein, Temu, and Amazon Haul for hyper-fast clothing items. While Generation Z appears to be championing the fast fashion backlash, for most people, embracing secondhand sales and purchasing fast fashion are not mutually exclusive (Trellis).
So where does this leave the “values-based” consumer? Supporting secondhand sales can positively contribute to a circular economy and reduce fashion waste, but simply purchasing secondhand clothing in addition to continuing to support fast fashion may do more harm than good. Unless the fashion industry makes significant efforts to grow their secondhand offerings and reduce their new product business, it is unlikely that significant environmental impact will be avoided. The industry needs to move beyond resale towards a more circular business model in general, including easy-to-recycle garments, online memberships, clothing rentals, and more (Trellis).
For consumers, it may seem impossible to avoid fast fashion and commit to sustainably-sourced fashion entirely. However, one ought to be mindful about the purchases they make, purchase sustainably when possible, and not make unnecessary secondhand purchases of items they will seldom wear or end up throwing away or re-donating.